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When dining out, pairing wine and food wisely will enhance the experience – and it can make or break it. This is especially true in wine bars, where the vino is specifically promoted as the central part of the meal, or in the case of wine bars that don’t serve food, the only part of the “meal”. Along with taste, the fact that wine has certain health benefits is another reason you might want to make sure you order correctly.
Besides simply avoiding wines made from low-quality ingredients, there are a few key tactics to keep in mind when it comes to choosing your glass (or bottle). Just as there are menu items to skip at Italian restaurants, seafood restaurants, and pizzerias, there are certain things to avoid at a wine bar, and drinks being a focal point of the experience. overall, it is a type of place where drinking products are just as taboo as certain food products. According to sommeliers and chefs who work in tandem to pair wine and food effectively, some important points for a successful wine bar order involve avoiding oxidized wine and spicy foods that could overpower the pairing.
“A wine bar is, by definition, an environment to fully immerse yourself in the astonishing diversity of wine expressions available on this precious planet.” It is the philosophy of Brent Karlicek, Certified Advanced Sommelier and Beverage Manager/Co-Owner of Postino in Houston. “If a sommelier has taken the risk of bringing something truly unique to the menu, you’re almost guaranteed to have a jaw-dropping effect waiting to happen.”
With that in mind, his wine bar taboo commands something familiar. “It’s a missed opportunity to focus on what’s comfortable and right in front of you. While a great sommelier is careful to provide dynamic examples of familiar wines, exploring an unfamiliar region or varietal is a guaranteed amplification of experience.”
“When you’re at a wine bar and ordering something by the glass, always ask to see the bottle of wine you’re interested in,” suggests James Sparks, owner/winemaker of Kings Carey Wines, as well as winemaker at Liquid Farm, both in Santa Barbara County. The reason? Dreaded oxidation, which can completely thwart an otherwise quality bottle of wine. “If there’s only a few inches of wine left in the bottle they show you, don’t order that wine. Even when the wine bars the previously opened gas cylinders, once the wine level is almost empty, too air can enter the bottles and it spoils the wine, it oxidizes it.” Instead, he says it’s best to stick with a wine from a recently opened bottle. “It will make for a much better tasting experience.”
Nicolas Andrés Martianhes accepted. According to the head sommelier at New York’s Balvanera, it’s important to anticipate any wine order by paying attention to how the wine has been stored. If you see bottles of white or rosé wine coming out of the fridge, for example, they may be starting a process of accelerated oxidation, lowering the quality.
The same goes for red wine if the ambient conditions are not adequate (for example, too hot or too humid). All wines should be stored in the refrigerator, whether red or white or not. “It’s good practice to taste the wine before ordering a drink,” notes Martianhes. “If the wine has been opened for a long time, it could be oxidized in addition to other defects. In short, one should not ask for wines that are not kept in good conditions, because they cannot be tasted correctly or appreciated by our senses.”
In addition to wines that have been improperly stored, another beverage professional recommends skipping house brands and private labels. mike rice, director of beverages at Alexandria Restaurant Partners, says more often than not, that could involve pricing. “Most of the time the wine bar has an agreement with a supplier, and they will charge a vastly marked up price and market because ‘you can’t get it anywhere else’.”
“At the end of the day, I think you should order what you like, but don’t be afraid to venture outside your comfort zone.” So said Ricardo Rodriguez, beverage director of New Jersey’s upcoming Iberian restaurant, Lita. “Tell the staff what you normally like and allow them to guide you to something new and exciting.” One thing he suggests avoiding, however, is asking for samples. “That might be okay in a craft beer bar, but it’s frowned upon in wine bars. You can tell the staff what you’re not interested in to avoid a recommendation you don’t like.”
Now that we know what types of wines to look out for, wine pairings are just as important, and the main thing to avoid here is spice.
“Avoid ordering snacks or spicy foods as they overpower the wine,” notes Hemant Bhagwani, chef/owner of the future Goa New York. “I would also avoid chocolate and blue cheese with any wine.”
This is especially true when ordering something typically served with wine, like oysters. “If you’re going to order oysters, don’t have them with hot sauce,” proclaims Raymond James Irwin, Chief Champagne Officer of Fizz Champagne & Bubbles Bar in Sacramento. “It overpowers the natural flavor of the oyster and dulls the wine or champagne you drink.” Instead, he recommends ordering a Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay Champagne) to showcase the minerality of the oyster and the acidity of a reseda.
Another option? Go for high-acid wines, like Grüner Veltliner, Txakolina, and Cava, all of which are must-haves for Rodriguez. “I like to snack on fatty cold cuts and cheeses high in salt. alcohol levels.”
So, the next time you raise a glass in a wine bar, make sure that said glass is filled with quality wine that has been properly stored and that it does not come with hot sauce.
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